An Introduction to Fair Trade

     There are some changes underway here at Urban Orchid.  I'm in the process of moving my blog from googlesites to blogger/blogspot and while I am working on my layout/formatting it may look a bit odd.  I'll also be working on adding more items to my blog sale and if you live in Las Vegas you will soon also be able to see some items for sale on Rumgr.

     Last week, I posted about the circumstances under which some of our clothing may be made.  Sometimes we forget that our clothes didn't just magically appear in the store and then home to our closets, but that there is a whole process in sourcing the fabric and turning that into the garments on store racks.  

     One way to ensure you are shopping consciously is by looking for fair trade items.  A brand or retailer that is committed to fair trade practices will sell products that support the producers and communities in which the items are made.  These items extend further than clothing but include chocolate, coffee, tea, soap, lotion, olive oil, and almost anything you can think of.  Fair trade items may be priced higher than a typical alternative, but that is because some brands that sell at lower cost do not ensure good working conditions or living wages for the manufacturers.

Fair Trade Panel at Greenfest Los Angeles

     The principles of fair trade are creating opportunities for economically and socially marginalized producers, developing transparent and accountable relationships between producers, retailers, and consumers, paying workers fairly and promptly, improving working conditions, protecting children against forced labor, environmental stewardship, and cultural identity.

     Many fair trade co-ops, organizations, and certification groups exist to make it easier to distinguish these companies that commit themselves to fair trade practices from those that do not.

Fairtrade International Logo

     Fairtrade International (FLO) is a non-profit organization.  The members of this organization emphasize strength in the supply chain - 1.2 million farmers and workers in 66 countries are able to organize and have a voice through FLO.  Fairtrade International acts as a global agent for change by providing strong standards for the minimums, premiums, and labor practices for each item they certify.  The standards are different for each product, but are all available online so it is clear what is required for each product.  An independent certification body checks on each product to make sure the production standards are up to par.

Fair Trade Federation Logo

     The Fair Trade Federation (FTF) is a different membership organization that screens businesses committed to fair trade.  With members of the FTF, you won't see a stamp or sticker on a certain product in a store, but the business will be listed as a member of the organization.  The FTF provides third-party accountability to the business, as they do routine checks and tests to ensure the business is keeping up with membership rules.  They have a great page on the myths of fair trade here.

Fair Trade USA Logo

     Fair trade USA also provides third party auditing.  Again, this ensures that the company at hand cannot slap a fair trade logo on their product or description without really committing to being fair trade.  Zhena's Gypsy Teas was the first fair trade tea to be certified by Fair Trade USA.  Zhena (pictured in the fair trade panel photo, second from left) says that fair trade is a powerful way to connect people to products.  She is committed to a good quality product and having a good relationship with her workers.  During a time of drought in Sri Lanka, the farm from which her teas are harvested did not produce enough tea.  Rather than going to another supplier, Zhena and her usual farm made an arrangement with another farm to make up for the lack of product. 

     Consumer choice and organization can influence major corporations.  The "Raise the Bar, Hershey" campaign put pressure on Hershey to use more ethical practices in how they obtain their cocoa and manufacture their bars.  In October 2012, they announced that they will "source 100 percent certified cocoa for its global chocolate product lines by 2020 and accelerate its programs to help eliminate child labor in the cocoa regions of West Africa."  While the wording is vague, the commitment and intent is a step forward that was encouraged by consumer pressure.

     Until then, I'll continue to enjoy some of my favorite fair trade chocolates - Divine chocolate and Chocolove's Fair Trade Organic, Fair Trade Organic with Cherries, and Fair Trade Organic with Currants and Almonds bars.  

    Incorporating fair trade items into your home doesn't have to be expensive or happen all at once.  Next time you wear out an item, try to replace it with a fair trade item.  Make fair trade coffee at the office and see how many people would be encouraged to do the same.  Tis the season - give fair trade gifts from candles, soaps, lotions, jewelry, scarves, and more - a fair trade gift would mean so much not only to your giftee but also to the community of the producer of that gift.  

Spotlight On: Eco-fashion Designer Lara Miller

     I could not begin my journey of sharing environmentally conscious brands without starting with Lara Miller.
     I was introduced to Lara Miller's designs at my first StyleChicago event.  I was new to Chicago and curious about what the city had to offer.  I also couldn't pass up drinks, passed appetizers, and goodie bags.  After hitting the bar, I walked around the crowded gallery space where designers stood behind booths and racks of merchandise.  I took note of leather bags, silk dresses, and sparkling jewelry, but my only purchase of the night was a Shannon skirt by Lara Miller.

Photo by Helen Berkun via LaraMiller.net

      The fun colors, useful pockets, and material that felt heavy enough to wear without my skirt flying up from the slightest breeze drew me in, but Lara's commitment to using organic fabrics and being handmade in Chicago sealed the deal.  The price point was a bit higher than the average brand in my closet, but to support a local business committed to remaining sustainable and high quality was worth it to me.
     After that night, I signed up for the e-mail list and started to follow Lara on Twitter.  I was always in the know about new collections, events/trunk shows, and sales.  I learned about the clever, convertible "flip" dresses/sweaters and also found out that a lot of her other pieces can be worn in multiple ways.   I drooled over all the cozy, organic knits and hoped to eventually own more Lara Miller designs.
     Around the holidays last year, I was able to obtain the Anna Scarf Tunic, Terry Three Piece Set, and the Donna dress:

Me in the Donna dress

     Love that the dress has straps that can be worn in different ways:

Photo by Helen Berkun via LaraMiller.net

     I discovered that she was a former director of the Chicago Fashion Incubator, a program I have mentioned in a previous post.  The Chicago Fashion Incubator provides studio space and workshops to up and coming designers in Chicago - complete with showroom space and having their merchandise sold in Macy's on State Street.
     Being the head of a small business, she is at the helm of her own social media accounts and engages with her customers.  She invited me to her studio in October to check out her latest collections - Spring/Summer 2012 and  Autumn/Winter 2012.

A rack of Spring/Summer 2012 pieces.  My favorite is the striped Spencer Flip Cardigan

A rack of Autumn/Winter 2012 pieces.  One of my favorites is the William Flip Jacket but my favorite piece is an un-pictured 'Ellen' Sweater - a navy blue sweater with purple dot patterned detail on the sleeves and back.

     I was eager to finally check out the flip cardigans in person and chat with one of my favorite local designers.  The personal interaction made it even more important to me to be mindful of who, what, and where I am wearing.  It meant a lot to connect with the person designing the clothes I own or want to buy and to see where they are made.
     She is an avid runner and was just in Las Vegas for the Las Vegas Rock and Roll Marathon.  I was able to catch up with her before the race to learn about one of her upcoming projects - an iPhone app meant to make keeping track of your favorite looks and designers easy.
     Purely Fashion is going to be "a clean, direct and exclusive way for you to connect with your favorite designers and find out what they're creating next."  I was able to check out Lara's test version and it looks really promising!  I love looking through websites to clip my favorite looks into an Evernote notebook for inspiration, but it takes a lot of time to go through Style.com slideshows, label/organize everything, and there isn't really a way to keep updated.
     With the Purely Fashion app, you are able to upload, like, and comment on looks as well as "follow" looks from your favorite designers so you are always up to date.  Many of the app developers and members are in the fashion industry so it is a great way to stay ahead of the curve.  Purely Fashion is still in development and is currently invite only.  Check out their website to learn more or request an invite.
     I hope it will work on an iPad2 even if it still displays in iPhone size or I can add it to the list of reasons why I need an iPhone!


     Lara Miller's designs can be purchased from her website, at various trunk shows and events, and select boutiques.  Check out her website for more information.  

Where are you wearing?

     When was the last time you looked at the care tag of your favorite clothing item and thought about the life of the person who made it?
     At the Green Festival in Los Angeles, I was able to listen to a provocative presentation by Kelsey Timmerman, author of the book "Where Am I Wearing? A Global Tour to the Countries, Factories, and People that Make Our Clothes".

Cover of "Where Am I Wearing?" Buy the book here.

     Inspired by a sense of adventure and the origin of his favorite T-shirt, he trekked to Honduras in search of the clothing manufacturer.  After being turned away at the factory doors by security, he waited nearby until the day was over.  He was finally able to speak with a friendly factory worker.  They chit-chatted about sports and hacky-sack but Kelsey didn't ask the questions that brought him to Hondoras in the first place. Part of him was afraid to know the answers.
     After that incident, he was determined to find the origins of his other favorite items.  Next up - a pair of boxers from Bangladesh.  He wanted to meet with representatives from the clothing manufacturer but they did not want to speak to a journalist.  They only took interest in speaking to a prospective buyer.  As Kelsey continued his quest to find out where he was wearing, he met factory workers making $50 or even $24 a month.  The cost of living in other countries may be lower, but often those wages are not still not enough.  Families must be separated or go hungry despite the long hours worked.

Kelsey Timmerman on the left, Chris Yura of SustainU on the right.

     Recently, an apparel factory in Bangladesh caught fire, killing more than 100 workers and injuring more than 200.  Days later another clothing factory also caught on fire and people were injured jumping out of windows to avoid burning - there were no fire escapes.  Poor building design is only one of the problems these workers face.  (See Kelsey's thoughts here: http://whereamiwearing.com/2012/11/bangladesh_factory_fire/)
     It seems that many garment workers in other countries are treated poorly and are paid low wages.  A job to earn money to try to support a family is good, right?  But do these jobs provide real opportunity?
     Tally up the approximate cost of what you are wearing or carrying (smartphone, tablet, handbag, wallet, etc).  How long would it take someone making $24 or $50 a month to afford that one outfit?  Life in some other countries is different than in the United States and I am thankful for the opportunities I have as an American.  But that does not mean workers who make the clothes I wear every day should have to live in poor conditions for me to get lower prices.  It also should not mean employees for the retailer that contracted the factory should be treated poorly, either.
     There must be a balance between the price of an item, the look and quality of that item, and the treatment of those who made it possible for me to buy that item.  This balance is definitely difficult to find - many retailers are not exactly transparent about their supply chain.

     I like to shop at Target - they have many locations, carry a variety of items, and have good prices on my favorite personal care items, snacks, nail polishes, and other items.  I've enjoyed free museum days they sponsored in Chicago and am glad they remind people to recycle every time I see the bins in my store.  I am interested in their collaboration with Neiman Marcus and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (who have initiated a major crackdown on counterfeiting!).  Target has goals to increase sustainability practices and better the health of their employees.  But I can't seem to find information on where and who makes the items that are sold under the Target labels (Mossimo, Merona, etc).
     This is unsettling after hearing about factory fires, forced labor, and impoverished workers in apparel factories abroad.
     As consumers, we can be part of the solution.  Kelsey suggests starting by wearing one story a day.  Like with a diet, it's difficult to restrict yourself to eating or avoiding a large number of food items right away but a slower, more conscious lifestyle change is easier to maintain.  It would not make sense to throw out everything in your home and start over.  Instead, check the tags on your favorite shirt or when you go out shopping.  Observe how many items are imported and from where they are imported.  See if you can find more information.  Check the types of materials that are used - natural or synthetic.  Find out more about the differences.  When you need to buy a gift or replace an item you've worn out - choose to buy from a company that is transparent about it's sourcing and goals.
     We use clothes, care, and food items every day.  Don't you want to know more about you are putting on and in your body?
    Kelsey spent a lot of time to find out and share more about where he was wearing.  He also spent the time in finding out more about the food that fuels him - his next book entitled "Where Am I Eating?: A Journey Through The Global Food Economy" is coming soon.  His website and blog have more information on his books and the social injustices of the clothing industry.

Shopping Local in Las Vegas - Neon Holiday Bazaar

Event flyer

     Just in time for the Black Friday through Cyber Monday shopping weekend, the Las Vegas Neon Holiday Shopping Bazaar set up a one day pop up shop on Saturday, November 24 at the Jackie Gaughan Plaza outside the El Cortez.  The shop featured some popular food trucks and booths featuring vintage boutiques, independent retailers, and designers.

The crowd at Neon

     When I arrived at the event, I was glad to see an old favorite vintage store - Annie Creamcheese.  My songbird friend, Stevie Jewel, introduced me to the Annie Creamcheese store on one of our many shopping expeditions.  I went to their display and loved the funky jewelry at affordable prices.  They had more items in the trailer, including lots of designer shoes and bold dresses.

Annie Creamcheese at the Neon Holiday Bazaar

     I was excited to finally check out Leather Couture by Jessica Galindo.  I've seen photos from Lollieshopping but had never been able to see the merchandise in person.  I am a fan of leather and hardware so Leather Couture's pieces were right up my alley.  I especially liked the rings.

Merchandise from Leather Couture by Jessica Galindo.

     Another booth I was looking forward to was The Jeweler's Daughter by Polly Weinstein.  I love seeing the success of former classmates and I believe Polly was actually my high school student body president at some point.  Her jewelry line shows that you can take the girl out of Vegas (she went on to study at Sarah Lawrence), but you can't take the Vegas out of the girl.  Love the playing card suit inspired rings and earrings, and this beautiful Stardust inspired necklace.

Stardust Necklace by The Jeweler's Daughter.

     I was drawn to the unique displays at the Ruffled Robin Boutique.  There were so many pieces made from recycled and vintage materials.  These necklaces made with tiny perfume bottles were so cool!

Necklaces from Ruffled Robin

I bought this metallic leather and chain bracelet with copper lock and key charms.

     My relatives were in town for the Thanksgiving weekend so I didn't have too much time to shop before dinner but had a great time checking out these boutiques and more.
      I am really pleased to see events like the Neon Holiday Shopping Bazaar succeed among both Las Vegas locals and tourists.  A tourist town known for being a haven for everything in excess hasn't been the easiest place to find interesting shopping and cultural events, but looks like Vegas is stepping up it's game.
     A longstanding local culture event called First Friday was alright when I was in high school, but I really only enjoyed going for the company of my best friends.  Now it is bigger and better - with more artists, food trucks, and even children's activities.  A newer monthly event featuring small businesses, musicians, and food trucks is VegasStreats.  I've only been to one Streats event but hope to catch the next one coming up on December 8.
     The Neon event was so much fun and hope to see more like it in the near future!  For more information, check out their website.

Green Festival Los Angeles Update

     I just wanted to make an update on my experience at Green Festival in Los Angeles and let you more about what is coming next!

Photo from GreenFestivals.org

     Green Festival is a multi-city celebration of all things sustainable - including clothes, food, home items, services, and more.  It showcases brands and products screened by Green America and Global Exchange for their commitment to remaining ethically and environmentally conscious.  In addition to Los Angeles, the event is also held in San Francisco, New York, Chicago, and Washington D.C.  I have attended in Chicago but was so busy with finals for school that I didn't really get to experience it.
     It was so inspiring to meet up with other sustainability minded people.  The event is set up so there are presentation stages featuring knowledgeable speakers of different aspects of being green - from cooking, shopping, running a business, or general living.  Between the stages and throughout the convention center were booths showcasing items or services from green exhibitors.

Entry badge.

     The HUB LA, a center for green businesses and technology with branches around the world, was a media partner for the festival.  They were kind enough to extend their lounge, exclusive presentations, and after party with Green Ambassador ticket holders, including myself.  

Food and drink spread.  Thank you, HUB LA, for also allowing me to charge up my phone and use your wi-fi!  I really needed it.

    I enjoyed sampling delicious vegan/vegetarian food and drink items.  While I stick to poultry and seafood as far as animal products, I love creative vegetarian and vegan options as well and am excited to bring some of those options back to my family.  The "Vampire Killer" kale chips (flavored with garlic and vegan cheese!) from Brad's Raw Foods were tasty and I brought home a box.  My mother and sister seem to like them too!

Never tried them before but I am glad I did!

     Another interesting consumable item I tried was a chia seed drink.  Mamma Chia provided the chia drinks at the fest.  The texture was jelly-like.  It was drinkable and even though there were jelly bits from the cooked up chia seeds, there wasn't anything to chew.  It sounds strange but was pretty good and is supposedly very good for athletes.  My favorite flavor was blackberry hibiscus, followed by coconut mango.

Different flavors of chia drink

     No GreenFest is complete without a fashion show!  Rebecca Mink, vegan shoe designer for MINK shoes, was the host of the "California Dreaming" fashion show.  I may be biased but I think I like Chicago fashion shows better!  Though it was still a great time with some interesting designs.

     The end of the show.

     After the fashion show was the after party!  I had a blast and was able to try the remaining Veev VitaFrute flavors.  I can definitely say my favorite is still margarita!  The food was provided by Sun Cafe and again, was all vegan and vegetarian.  I loved that the food was delicious and nobody was shy about eating it.

Party snapshot. The date on my camera is off by a month.

     I also really loved the recycled fabric giftbag and all the fun eco-goodies!

     The HUB office was pretty cool, complete with lots of open space and private meeting rooms.  Motivation to stay true to their values and also move forward with technology was literally written on the wall. Technology makes it possible for the Los Angeles members to do what they do and keep in touch with other HUB members all over the world at the click of a button.

Chalk drawing on a wall at the HUB

     Speaking of technology, I have to give a shout out for the team at Uber Los Angeles.  It was raining on a Saturday night in downtown and they sent me a safe ride to and from the party within minutes.  Max and the Chicago team are great and I am glad service is just as consistent in other areas.


     The next day at the fest I learned a lot about fair trade and browsed some more booths.  There was so much beautiful jewelry, all handmade and that made use of recycled items.

From War to Peace makes cool copper jewelry from recycled bullets and other weapons.

    Fahmina uses recycled leather in their designs

Unified People/Bobo Wince uses recycled leather, geodes, and other stones for their jewelry and are handmade in Los Angeles

I ended up buying this beautiful wrap bracelet/necklace from Unified People.

     There is so much to share with you in the coming weeks about fair trade and the sources behind some of the items we buy.  I am also working on some spotlights on my favorite eco-conscious brands - including some I found at GreenFest and my part of the Indigenous #worthwearing campaign.  Still putting together an "at-a-glance" type information page comparing some of these brands, let me know if you have suggestions.  Thanks for reading and please keep checking back!